Surfing is thrilling. Especially when you do not know how to swim. This morning marked the second time I gave myself to the waves without a way to escape their grip if things went south. After forcing myself out of a warm bed at 5:00 a.m. and immersing myself in the cold of the dawn once, I became addicted. The perfect peace and clarity of mind that I experienced is what gets me out there in spite of my inability to swim. Still, every time I enter the tide, it seems as if I am playing with my fortune. Could this time be my last one? In my case, a mistake can be fatal. Although so far, things have been smooth, I am certain there is yet to be a moment when I will stand on the edge. Nonetheless, the calm and happiness I experience on the waves will draw me in again and again

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