Dawn Patrol

Today, for the first time, I decided to join Dawn Patrol. Dawn Patrol is a small group of students at my school who head to the beach at 6:15 on Sunday morning to learn how to surf.

Now, I’ve been telling myself for years that I wanted to learn how to surf. It’s always been something that fascinates me. I love movies about surfing, and I think it’s an amazing skill to have.

I’ve actually been surfing twice – once with a family friend when we lived in San Francisco, and then once when we were in Cabo. But those times I never did more that ride the whitewater to the shore. Today, I went past the point where the waves were breaking, which was a brand new experience for me.

It didn’t exactly go as planned.

As it turns out, when you’re about to be hit by a wave and you’re my size (about 5’2″), the wave looks a heck of a lot bigger. It’s also a lot easier to be tossed around. I had a really hard time getting past the point where the waves were breaking, but once I did, it was amazing.

I didn’t ride very many waves. But the amazing part of the trip for me was sitting on my surfboard in the ocean, feeling the swells come up and down underneath me, and watching the sunrise and the fog clear away. It was an incredible feeling.

I did only catch two waves, once after I got out, and then again when I was ready to go back in. I didn’t stand up, in fact I did the exact opposite and got tossed around quite a bit. On my last wave, the board hit me in the face while I was underwater, which wasn’t very pleasant.

Overall though, the trip was worth it. I may not have made huge progress, but at least I got out there and started to get a feel for it. And watching the sun rise was perfect.

I definitely plan on going again. Maybe after I catch up on my sleep though.

Patroling Dawn

Clocks buzz and dawn breaks,

The child was not awake.

The child picked him up and took him far,

Down the street and into the car.

It drove down a meaty hill,

It did not have much time to kill.

Boards retrieved and no one forgotten,

Luckily the weather was not rotten.

A beach destination appeared in sight,

The sun was quite bright.

Children went in and boarded in the waves,

A wonderful start to a new day.

Cold and ice conquered the fun,

A surfing day had come undone.

Banana Pancakes

Just think, had it not been for a serious surfing accident that cut his career short, we would have never heard the disarming, quietly soulful, and bluesy chorus that creates his trademark mellow sound.

Jack Johnson has been a name responsible for great albums such as “Brushfire Fairytales” and “In Between Dreams” whose songs have been our pleasures for a solid decade.

The Hawaiian singer/songwriter graduated from UCSB with a degree in film. He directed the popular surf documentary “Thicker Than Water” in 2000. He also directed surf film in 2002 called “September Sessions” in which he also appeared on the soundtrack.

He was quite the surfer as he was the youngest invitee to make the surfing finals at Pipeline Masters on Oahu’s North Shore at the age of 17. Hawaiian surfing culture? A trend with musicians is that wherever you live has a certain mark on your music as if the sound is innate.

Other than that, he a devoted family man who puts his three children and his wife Kim before fame and fortune as he explains in Men’s Journal. Thanks to his friendship with fellow musician and lovable mellow head Ben Harper, as well as Harper being my neighbor, I got to meet him in person. He’s a hell of a nice guy.

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