The wind whipped sand into my face
as I walked eagerly towards the sea
the soles of my feet being searing like meat on a crackling grill of sand
but I didn’t notice because i knew what the water has in store
my foot soon touches the ocean water
the water splashed innocently over my skin
suddenly a tingling chill shoots up my toes, wraps my leg and takes hold of my chest
i step back, for a split second, from the icy creature
that looked at me with a dangerous glare
before throwing all sense out the window
and running like a child into a toy store
through the shallow waters
gliding my board through the surf
I, not so gracefully, mounted my board
landing with a thud of excitement
finding my window in between sets
I tighten my ab muscles a sink into the water with my hand
taking long, slow, methodical strokes
Making it past the break i sit up on my board
the afternoon wind blows sea spray up into my nostrils
forcing me to breathe in the oceans salty breath
forcing me to admit and secum to its power
waves role under me like moving hills
bouncing and rocking the liquefied surface that I sit on
I see my chance
a wave approaches
it starts to break to the right
paddling, scooping and urging my board to move forward
I feel the weight of the board lifted and taken by the wave
my knees drag among the top of the grainy foam board for an instant
then i spring to my feet
my knees become springs that anchor me to the board
that anchors me to the sea
the once icy beast has now become my dance partner
we tango, gracefully, down the beach
I reach my hand out as i am gliding down the wave
and feel the energy of the earth
the wave had been a single pulse
a single heartbeat from the bottom of the sea
it carried me, nurtured me, and give me safe passage back to the land
that my feet are so familiar with
but quickly the wave comes to a halt
throwing me from my board
and smushing me into the sand
submerging my body
the icy creature then again glared at me
before being drawn and pulled back into the sea
i was not offended that i had been pushed off the wave
but honored that it had accepted me and danced with me
I gathered my board
and watched all of the little pieces of negativity that i had burdened
now shattered by the sea and swept off with the creature
I left the sandy paradise
reborn
Photo Found on Wikipedia